For my iteration design project, I chose redo the name tag assignment. I wanted to make a name tag that was 3D and I wanted to model it after children’s alphabet blocks. To make this, I knew I’d have to learn how to create a box from plywood using the laser cutter. I’ve seen a lot of boxes made of plywood lying around the Fab Lab, so I know it was doable. This is my first name tag!
First, to make the box, I used an Inkscape extension called TabbedBoxMaker. Figuring out how to install the extension was confusing since most of the instructions online involved PC and I had a Mac. The next confusing part was the options to make the box. This included a lot of terminology that I was unfamiliar with, such as “kerf” and “joint clearance”. I played around with the options and decided that the options that were important to me were the box dimensions (length, width, and height), the tab width, and the box type.
During the laser cutting process, I wanted the laser cutter to cut the rasterized parts of my design deeper. One of the staff, Jeremy, told me that to change the cut depth, I needed to change the speed. Using a slower speed meant that it would cut the plywood deeper, but using too slow of a speed can cause the plywood to catch on fire. Initially, I set the speed to 50% and to make it cut deeper, I ran the laser cutter over my plywood four times for each block. To speed things up, Jeremy changed the speed to 25% so that I only had to cut the plywood twice for each block. That was a pretty neat tip!
For my iteration project, I decided to revisit my initial idea for the vinyl sticker project. I had envisioned making a Yoshi sticker for that but was unsuccessful in that at the time. I grew up playing all sorts of Yoshi and Mario games on my Nintendo and so I thought it would be a great idea to create a sticker for Yoshi! So going back I figured out two aspects I could tweak to make it successful: reduce the number of layers from ~9 to 6 and remove the really thin and delicate alterations from the design as they were not coming out of the cutter unscathed.
This time, even as it worked, I made an error and layered them wrong which resulted in me printing them again and trying to fix the sticker. (I absolutely love Yoshi, and there was no way I was abandoning him again.)
I managed to get it right this time and successfully made the sticker! Instead of going the originally thought route of creating a Yoshi that looks exactly like the one from the file, I decided to make a pop up style version of the sticker.
For this project, I recreated my name tag that I made on my first week. I was debating either I make another name tag out of the same material(wood + acrylic) but in a different dimension (3D model, like a box) or using the laser cutter on a different material. I already chose my final project to be in wood and acrylic (spoiler!), so I chose to use a totally different material to laser cut.
<- Initial name tag
Dot told the class about the laser-cut lace, and my heart was set right there. I was going to create a coaster with a doily design.
I got a silhouette of lace doily from Google, and added my name on it. However, this seemed pretty bare, let alone lonely. I made some more of this design for each member of my family, because, why not?
The fabric I had in hand was aida fabric, which came in the embroidery kit I bought for fun. The material seemed sturdy enough to be semi-waterproof, and it was white, so it could be a good doily. One thing I was afraid of was if it would catch on fire while cutting, since there was no distinctive settings for the laser cutter to cut through fabric. Thankfully, I had staff to help me, and I could cut the fabric with cardboard settings with ease.
One thing I recognized after cutting the doilies was how bare they were. I had each to be 4in*4in, which gave me a lot of white space. To compensate for the bareness, I chose to hand-sew (or embroider) some graphic on it. Being Asian, I chose to go with Chinese Zodiac animals. I had to teach myself how to cross-stitch with different patterns, which took me a while.
If I were to do make the project better, I would embroider on the fabric first before cutting it: the delicate pieces started to fall apart when I tried to grip them while embroidering. Also, I would change the design of the cutouts so that the holes would not be too narrow, which will allow a cleaner, whiter product.
I really liked experimenting with new media, I might give another random material a try.
Our task for this week was to reiterate on one of our past projects. I had initially planned on redoing the copper tape project. I wanted to build a boat with LEDs that lit up when placed in water (therefore, water being the switch). The issue I ran into was that even with a lot of salt, the water did not conduct enough electricity to light up even a singular LED with the given 3V battery.
Therefore, I decided to pivot completely, and redo my nametag project. This time, I decided that instead of a simple nametag, I would create a 3D structure that could potentially act like a lamp-shade, and cast a shadow of a logo on the wall.
I decided to go with the Avengers logo. With the much palpable excitement and anticipation before the movie release, I wanted to create something to make my excitement levels reach higher. Since the Avenger logo is an A, which also happens to be my initial, I imagined it would look cool when the shadow of the logo was casted on a wall when a light was placed inside.
I was happy with the end result since it is something that I will keep on my desk with a light inserted since it would be cool to have my own Avengers Assemble signal.
For this project, I wanted to reiterate my paper circuit project. I was dissatisfied with my general approach for the original project, so I decided to scrap the original idea and remake it entirely. My initial project is shown below.
I felt that the artistic aspect was underwhelming for what I had wanted. This flaw along with the fact that the LEDs did not work and that the circuit was not as interactive as I had wanted it to be led me to scrap the project entirely and start over.
My new soft circuit project is a jigsaw puzzle that lights up when all of the pieces are connected. I set out to make this project happen because I wanted a soft circuit that was more interactive than the original setup.
I created the initial base puzzle using the laser cutter. In inkscape, I created a silhouette of the image I wanted to etch into the board and cut up the entire square area into a jigsaw puzzle in inkscape. The subject for the photo I used was the marina towers in Chicago. I also cut holes in the puzzle pieces as slots for the LEDs to sit in. I planned to create a night scene and paint around the towers so I could use the LEDs as stars.
To connect the circuit, I created a base board for the puzzle with two open slots for power and ground of the battery on the back of the board. I created a copper tape circuit as shown below that connects the circuit through the puzzle pieces. I started by only connecting one LED just to test out the puzzle circuit design. The connections are shown below.
I spent a lot of time figuring out why this single LED was not working and came to the conclusion that the connections weren’t solid enough to send the current through. I figured that applying a strong border around the puzzle would help solidify the connections between the pieces. I had created a border but it ended up being too wide to hold the pieces. I was also suggested to place copper tape connections on the base of the puzzle to help the connection more. I spent so much time debugging this single LED that I was unable to implement these, changes any of the other LEDs, or paint the puzzle.
It was very frustrating for me to spend time connecting the circuit piece by piece using the copper tape, which was a very tedious process, only to find out that the connections were too weak to work with. I had figured this would be a straightforward circuit to “wire”, but it was very time-consuming and prone to failure.
I had hoped to see a finished project that came together as I had originally imagined, but my time constraints led me to lower my expectations and I ended up spending most of my time debugging the circuit, which I was not expecting.
If I were to redo this project, I would rely on copper tape on the baseboard rather than on the inter connections between the pieces. I would have also created a simple circuit using a few of my connections between the pieces to make sure it worked before snaking a couple of feet of copper tape around the outer border of the puzzle in the hopes that it would work out just fine. I would have better planned for my plans to go south.
The final product at this point is show below. I may come back and iterate upon it more and hopefully end up with what I originally had in mind.
For the iteration project, I decided to build off of our sticker assignment. For instance for my sticker project, I made a girl who had on sunglasses. After looking at it again, I realized how cool it would look in a more 3D version. Because of this I decided to use the laser printer to cut out acrylic pieces so that I could put them together. I then stacked the acrylic together to make a nice piece. Also I used the stickers to add a little more detail to my 3D sticker design to hopefully make the design pop more. Lastly I decided to use an LED because I thought it would compliment the clear piece well and cast a glow behind it.
When you look at my piece, You can see that it actually has 3 layers of acrylic. My base piece consist of a clear piece of acrylic where I cut out the whole head shape of the piece. I additionally rastored on the original details of her face so that we could see it and also so that I could have an outline for my other acrylic pieces. I then cut out a piece of black acrylic that I could use for her hair. I then decided to attach it behind the clear piece instead of on top because I thought it looked way better. I then cut out pieces of blue acrylic to use for her glasses and mouth. I ended up really liking it because I think it added more dimensions to the piece and it added a pop of color.
Also for the sticker portion, there was actually a lot more that I wanted to do with the stickers but unfortunately I could not separate the stickers out of their original position. I tried cutting it multiple times under higher settings but I still had no luck. Because of this, my sticker portion isn’t as clean or detailed as I would have wanted it to be. Overall though, I tried to use stickers to add more detail to her glasses and her hair.
Ultimately, I think that the assignment was fun and I enjoyed seeing a 3D dimension version of my sticker design. If I had to change anything, I would upgrade how the stickers looked on the piece and maybe make the LED light stand out more since I had to press it for it to really work.
The project i chose to do my iteration piece around was the laser name tag. My previous one had some issues with the globe. This time around, I wanted to incorporate other techniques I have learned thus far in the class. They first thing I did was design my project on a piece of paper and I realized I wanted to run with my previous world idea. This time, I wanted it to be more focused on that. Originally, I designed my project to raster in the globe, however the day i went into use the laser machine it was down so I thought to myself what can I do to make this equally creative but still incorporate all my ideas. From that, I laser cut a circle and removed the globe from inside of it so it just rastered my name on to the bottom of the circle. Here is the progress picture of the laser cutter and the design on the computer.
Then, I used the globe design to cut out a sticker of the globe, I did two layers of the sticker, the ocean part blue and the land part green. Getting the pieces where they were supposed to go was very difficult because of how small the vinyl pieces were but all in all i was really happy with how the globe fit together and it ended up being my favorite part. Here is a picture of globe sticker I created.
Another difficult part was centering the globe onto the circle which a major part of my original design. The next step was getting that on there which I did by using the transfer tape. Then came a more complicated part. I wanted to add lights around the world to make it look like there were stars surrounding it. I added two lights on each side. Getting the copper tape to loop around and connecting the negatives to positives was difficult but drawing it out on paper before starting helped so much. I ended up getting all four to work and I was really happy with the end product. I like this name tag much more than the last one, especially because of all the new tools I used to get it to look how i wanted it to look. Here is my final design with the lights and with the lights in a darker setting.
For this week’s project we got to work on a previous project in the class and redo the project to expand upon the idea, utilizing the skills we have learned in this class to improve upon the concept and design. I chose to work on the 3D printing lab, the prompt I used in this lab was,
“Imagine a themed set of flatware or dishes for dining that is more interesting or creative than existing versions. This will involve designing several parts for a set that are tied together in some substantive way. You may wish to consider certain sorts of users as well as places people eat, or specific kinds of foods that they might match.”
The design I came up with the first time is shown above. I worked in tinkercad to develop a set of flatware that could be carried in a portable manner for people who pack a lunch and want to conserve plastic (from plastic one use silverware). The design I came up with was a “swiss army flatware”. When I got into the designing of this the first time I was unable to complete all the parts I imagined, and I was only able to print a small version of the flatware. In my previous blog post I stated,
“I think conceptually I had the right ideas, however I should print another iteration to solve these problems and still need to see how the capsule would function with the moving pieces, to see if my ideas will actually function well.”
So I was excited to revisit this project and see what all I could accomplish. First, I knew I needed to print the design to be bigger, so that they were a realistic size that could fit in someone’s hand. I printed the design at the Illinois Makerlab. It took about 5 hours. I though the larger print would solve the previous issue I had with my knife being a bit thin and fragile, however, I think looking at how the print came out I should’ve increased the thickness of this a bit before printing.
I also had to design how the silverware would be enclosed. In class I drew out some options, fabric capsules, acrylic, 3D-printed, and wood. After discussions with my TA, Sara, about the pros and cons of different options, I decided to design a press-fit box version using wood. I lazer cut a first prototype of the box after printing the flatware to see the dimensions of the object and figure out how I wanted the moving parts to function within the box, I had to think through how the silverware would come out of the capsule one at a time. This was a bit tricky. I ended up lazer cutting 2 press fit boxes.
A lot of options I came up with that would aid in pulling the silverware out of the box, hindered the use of the silverware or the design of the box. I came up with a solution, after talking through some different ideas, and I realized I needed a few other parts to be 3D printed. I chose to create spacers that would hold the 3 silverware pieces at specific heights, and I created a handle to attach to the back of the silverware so that the pieces could be “swung” out of the slots on the box. I also had to measure slots for the silverware to come out of the box, and estimate the height of each so they lined up with the silverware on the peg. Above are the designs for the box and the extra 3D pieces, and below this are the in progress images of me putting all these different parts together.
I ran into many issues with this iteration project that I had to spend time thinking and designing alternative solutions for as I went. Before starting this I thought the iteration of my first idea would be relatively simple, however there were so many aspects I hadn’t considered. Like how the parts would move out of the capsule, how would the silverware remain at the height they needed to be to get out of the slots smoothly, and how would someone actually use this? The one thing I still feel concerned about with this design is that it’s too large and cumbersome for someone to actually use. Also the box shape, with sharp corners do not fit comfortably in my hand, and the silver ware only move 90 degrees, making it impossible to use the tool (180 would be much better). However, I think given the materials and skills I have that this gave me an opportunity to think more about moving parts and physical design issues and that I feel I succeeded in building upon my previous idea.
“Inside the box” problem solving
For this iteration assignment, I am remaking my original light-up card. Here is the original light-up card.
My goal is to create a 3D outdoor-scene based on the game “travel frog”.
The idea is that when I press a bottom, the house and a tree light up. And then when I turn on the power, there should be some other effect on the building.
The first thing I started with is the press-fit box. This box is used to hide Arduino motherboard. There are two holes on the side of the press-fit box. The one on the top is for the sensor, and the side one is for the USB cable. I searched a lot on the internet in order to find how to make a press-fit box. After I finally decided to ask a staff, he told me that the Fab lab has a program for it!
And then, I moved on to the top layer, which included the 3D scene and copper tape circuit. One problem I have is: since the house (or the rock) is made of aluminum foil, it might affect the conduction of the circuit! I turned out doing the circuit on a plastic paper and glued the paper onto the foil. Last time When I did the light-up card, the circuit is flat. But this time I need to find a way to connect the tree, the house, and find a place to the pattern. I draw a circuit first, and then see how it will work connecting all the design.
This is the part one of my iteration assignment.
I was not quite sure what sensor I would like to use. But because I have used the distance sensor and buzzer before, I would like to try something new. Therefore, I choose colorful auto flashing LED. After I connected the LED, jumper, and Arduino, and put it into the box, I found a mistake. The hole is too small to let the USB head go through. So I reprint the side with laser cut.
This is my final product. –> Watch the video IMG_5024
This week’s assignment was iteration — redoing something we’ve done before with a new approach and a combination of tools/methods. I chose to reiterate the name tag cutting project. The picture below is my laser cut name tag from the laser cutting week. The reason why I decided to reiterate the project was because I really like the laser cutting machine — I like how precise it is. I thought the name tags we created were really simple so I wanted to see if I could do a project that was more complicated with the laser cutting machine.
I’m not sure exactly where I got the inspiration from – but I thought it would be cool to do something with gears. I looked up a simple design on the internet. Some people in my lab session were also talking about shadowboxes and press fit boxes so I planned for the gears to be in the press fit box. It is meant to be an aesthetic piece. I also thought it would be pretty neat if the gears turned by themselves with a servo motor (powered by Arduino).
The first thing I did was plan out the gears. I found a super useful website – creategear.com – that helped me create the gears I needed. After editing the design of the gears on Inkscape, I laser cut them out. Only two of four gears were cut out correctly on my first attempt. It was a pretty frustrating process because the machine was super busy and I was starting to realize this was a bit of a complicated project because the gears needed to be in precise positions to work. After messing around with the other two gears, I finally got them to cut out properly. The next step was cutting out the press fit box which didn’t turn out as messy or unpredictable as the gears. At this point, I wasn’t sure whether or not I should laser cut holes through the press fit box (to hold up the gears) or drill through the back of the box. I asked James for advice and he told me to use the drill press. After some guesstimates on where the gears should go, I used the drill press. These initial guesses were wrong because the gears overlapped (see picture 2), but I just used the drill press again and this time, they were more or less correct. I feel like I should’ve taken more of a scientific procedure (ie. precise measurements) to ensure that I was drilling into the right place, but it worked out in the end.
After I got all the gears into the holes, I immediately ran into my next problem. While the gears turned when I twisted the nut of a bolt in the back, the nut would screw into the bolt and started tightening/pressing against the back of the box. I showed my handy-dandy roommate my gearbox and told him about my problem, and he had a fix for it! He works a lot with bikes which is why he knows a bit about certain mechanical mechanisms. He told me that I just needed to double nut the bolts from the back so that the bolts are tightened against each other and won’t move towards the back of the box. THAT WAS A SUPER HELPFUL TIP! I really wouldn’t have figured that one out by myself.
At this point, I have my gears in my pressfit box and they’re spinning fine. The next obstacle I had was that I wasn’t sure how I was going to attach a servo motor to the bolt/nuts. They’re quite small. Duncan told me to talk to the in-house electronics consultant, Brandon. He looked at my project and recommended that I 3-d print a worm drive and attach it to a motor (super smart!). He told me how it could bet set up on my box and helped me 3-d print a worm drive. I didn’t think the threads would be able to print that well, but it came out looking a lot better than I thought it would.
(3d printed worm drive)
I hot glued the bottom part of the worm drive to one of the bolts, but I wasn’t sure how to set up the other part of the worm drive. Also, I wasn’t sure if the top component of the worm drive was turning the bottom part, so I dropped the idea of completing the worm drive. In the end, I also decided not to attach the servo motor to the 3d printed knob because I knew I wasn’t going to keep/devote an Arduino board onto the gearbox and I didn’t want to rip a servo piece off the 3d printed knob after the project.
This project caused me quite a bit of anxiety because there was a lot of planning and uncertainty, but I’m satisfied with the end result. In the near future, I might ask Brandon how I can get the motor-powered worm drive to the press fit box.
I settled on iterating my nametag because it seemed the most flexible project to adapt what I’d learned! I really liked the arduino sensor projects, so I tried coming up with ideas that I could use sensors for. There were a few options, like having a nametag that lights up according to sensor input, but I eventually went with a fusion of the sensor project I did previously and the nametag.
My original nametag was pretty simple in design. For this project, I wanted to keep some of the simplicity of the laser-cut wood, but add a flair with the arduino sensors. I also made the design similar, keeping the font and giraffe! My arduino sensor project involved a microphone and a buzzer, so when the mic detected a loud noise, the buzzer would buzz. I thought I could adapt this to a nametag — envisioning a sort of name placard on a desk that would display my name when someone wanted my attention or comes into my office or whatnot. Originally I wanted to make my name float on some sort of balloon, with height controlled by an arduino, but that was a bit too ambitious. What ended up making more sense (and was something I could picture much better!) was a name tag that would flip up bits of wood or plastic to display my name.
I used servos from the pom-pom project and the microphone code from the sensor project to make this happen. Now the nametag collapses into a flat piece, and when needed it opens up to reveal my name and some little designs I like. I think this is an improvement over the original, in terms of creativity, but it definitely performs the nametag function worse (by not always having my name visible). I’d like to think of this as a prototype of sorts. Maybe the next model will have the nametag built into a desk, and when I’m sitting at the desk the nametag will be visible, but when I’m gone there’s nothing but a desk (as the nametag would fold flat in the same way). Overall, it was fun to unite the arduino and sensors with a nametag, but the bulkiness of the sensors limit its use as a functional nametag. It definitely still works as a nametag, but it is much more stationary and fragile than the first version. The code also bugs out a bit for unknown reasons, causing the name to be displayed very briefly (rendering it not very useful as a nametag…).
Even though the project I chose to iterate was name tag assignment, I redid the 3D printing for decoration. The thesis of the assignment is Disney character. In the name tag, I inserted the silhouette of Snow White instead of a pig. For 3D printing, I printed out the Olaf. When I printed out the olaf, it almost failed. Olaf has nose and tiny arms which caused a lot of supports. When I took off all supports, the arm was removed with supports. So, I tried to work in makerlab and redesigned the olaf; I just made a new snow man. My snow man had thick arm which might not cause the support. Also, the new snow man did not have tiny details like eyebrows or flowers. When I printed out the second snow man, it still had supports. TA told me that I should make design thicker so that the tiny parts will not removed with supports.
For the name tag, I worked with the wood. The reason I chose the wood was because I like the mood of the wood. The original design I built up was Olaf holding my name tag. I thought the wood would be better to use instead of other materials.
At the first trial, ”S”, “C”, and “O” was not printed. I repeated the same process as what I did for the original assignment. During the process of working with Inkscape, there was no problem with the design. After I saved as pdf file and opened the file, there were some missing letters. When I asked one of my classmate, he said that it does not matter with what pdf file shows. So, I printed it and the laser cutter just printed out what is shown in pdf file. I removed the file and remade it. I did not know what is the problem but when I redid it, all the letters were not missing.
This iteration assignment should revise the original work with added materials. For my assignment, I should redo the name tag with electronics circuit for a light. Before I worked in the lab by myself, I brainstormed for this assignment. When I talked with my TA about the LED. She told me it is better to use soldering. She showed me how to do soldering. I succeed in soldering the LED and the line. When I tried to solder the battery and the line, I was curious whether it is okay to solder directly to the battery. One of the TA said that I should not solder directly to the battery. He gave me the battery holder and there were two little silver things. If I connect to plus and minus to these sliver things, the LED lights up. My final product is like snow man holding shiny name tag. 🙂
(1)Original project: name tag
I made two name tags for first assignment. First one is made by wood and second one is made by mirror-type acrylic. Mirror-type acrylic has two layers.
(3) Final Product