Champaign-Urbana Community Fab Lab
Illinois Informatics and School of Information Sciences
Champaign-Urbana Community Fab Lab

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Final Project Reflection – Nicholas Agate

     My idea for the final project was an electric guitar pedal board. I did not previously own a pedal board, and because I play guitar, it is something that I was enthusiastic about making. In all, the project involved utilizing Inkscape, Fusion 360, Tinkercad, Meshmixer, the Universal Laser Cutter, a resin printer (my new tool area), wood conditioner and stain,  plastic primer and pewter spray paint, and a hammer and finishing nails. Please see a few in-progress images below.

     In the beginning, I had a rough idea of what I wanted the board to look like, and I am happy that the final product came out as I had envisioned it. I was planning on making a pedal board that would have dark wood and decorative metal-looking pieces on the side, and the end product definitely fits. I am also proud of the fact that I completely designed all of the pieces for the pedal board myself. I did not use any files from online, and it felt good to design the whole project from start to finish. However, even though I am very happy with my pedal board,  I did run into a couple of issues along the way. The first was that my PDF files of the pedal board were not being read correctly by the Universal Laser. I ended up fixing this by opening up my Inkscape SVGs on the laser’s computer and making sure that the width and color of my lines were correct before saving the files as PDFs. The second problem was due to the strength of the wood glue that I was using. The cross panels that serve as the platforms for the guitar pedals are able to hold up to the stress of pushing the pedals down, however the wood glue that held the panels in place gave out. My fix to this problem was nailing the panels into the sides of the pedal board with finishing nails. Please see the final pedal board below.

     The first learning goal that I had for this project was to incorporate suggestions from those around me, because I think that it is easy to work to your own beat and miss out on valuable input from others. The two parts to this pedal board that came from outside suggestions are the individual cross panels and the metal-looking pieces on the sides of the board. I originally planned to make the board’s top one solid piece of wood, but my roommate, Matt Goodalis, suggested that I use individual strips of wood so that any wiring could be kept out of the way. The second piece of advice came from Duncan Baird, my instructor. He introduced me to the idea of using the resin printers to make objects that I could paint to look like metal. I am grateful for both of these suggestions because they made it into my final product and led it be functional and aesthetically pleasing. By the end of the project, I also learned to further reflect on the design decisions that I make. The input from my roommate especially showed me that some designs can be improved upon if you just spend more time thinking about their practicality.

     My next learning objective was to use a new program that would help me during the design phase of this project. For this I used Autodesk Fusion 360. I found that being able to turn SVG files into 3d objects was very helpful. I was able to take my designs and extrude them, so that I could better understand how the pieces would fit together and look once I had them all cut out. But outside of these benefits that the program afforded, I was also able to develop my planning skills. I have mentioned before that my planning felt week in earlier assignments, so this program allowed me to slow down and consider the shape and measurements of my pieces further. I am glad that I created this goal for myself, because the success of this project has shown me the upsides to extensive planning before making, which I can utilize in the future. Please see an image of two of my pieces in Fusion 360 below.

     Finally, the learning objective of using new materials was satisfied through the use of resin. It was interesting to see how resin was formed in the printers, and the decorative pieces that I created definitely add an interesting dimension to the project. However, if I were to redo this project, I would use a different type of wood. I knew that I wanted to do laser cuts in order to get precise pieces, so I went to CU Woodshop Supply and Home Depot to see if there was any interesting wood that I could use. Unfortunately I could not find any quarter inch pieces that would fit into the Universal Laser, which caused me to go with the plywood staining route. As I said, I am happy with the project’s outcome, but this is something that I would like to have done differently.

     Next, after reviewing my previous posts, I have realized that I tend to push myself more with a tool area once I am familiar with it. I do not necessarily think that this is a bad thing, but I could learn even more by challenging myself earlier on. That being said, I have become a lot more comfortable with making. I am majoring in political science and I am attending law school next fall, and up until this point, I have had very little experience with making because it falls outside of my studies and hobbies. Using machines like the laser cutters and the 3D printers forced me to step out of my comfort zone, and I am glad that I did. I have found that I really enjoy making, and I would like to continue doing it in the future.

     The making area that I enjoyed most in the lab was laser cutting. Besides taking a middle school woodshop class, I have not had a lot of experience with wood working, and I have grown to enjoy it. Most of the staff has a specialty area and if I were to pick one, this would be it. It was exciting to plan out projects and see them take shape while using the laser cutters. And afterwards, I brought the project into my original vision by staining and putting on the final touches. Because of this project, and the class as a whole, I feel comfortable calling myself a maker. It is not something that I would have attributed to myself in the beginning of the semester, but I have learned many new skills in multiple areas, and this final project has especially made me realize that I have the ability to create unique and useful projects. To this end, I hope to continue being a maker by engaging in more woodworking for future projects.

     Lastly, I would again like to thank Duncan Baird and Matt Goodalis, who helped by contributing invaluable ideas to this project. I am also generally happy that I learned a lot in this class while getting the chance to make new friends. Hopefully I am able to stop by the Fablab during future visits to the University of Illinois.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Iteration Assignment – Nicholas Agate

     For this iteration project, I originally set out to create a box that would hold my vinyl collection, but I quickly realized that the box would be larger, and more costly than I wanted it to be. I then tried to think of another box that could be useful and came up with a gear box for my guitar accessories. I did not previously have any type of specific storage for my guitar gear, so this was an exciting project for me. I ultimately wanted to end up with a box that was lined with felt, had a hole for a lighting insert, had a walled off section to hold picks, and a design that featured bird cutouts, guitar rasters, and my name and the year. I mainly wanted to feature my name as an aspect from the laser name tag assignment because this new box would be the same expression of my love for music, but with an increase in difficulty and complexity. This final box would ideally be in my home or future office and would serve as both useful storage and a conversation piece. Please see the sketch below and original laser name tag below.

     After creating my design, I decided to create a smaller scale box that would be the same design as the final, large box. I did this because I was not one hundred percent sure that the two-piece box was the one that I wanted to commit to. I also wanted to see how the pieces would fit together so that I could have a better understanding of the box for my final design. For both the small scale box and the final box, I used the website www.festi.info/boxes.py. Please see the small scale box below.

     Next, I began making my design alterations to the SVG file that I downloaded from www.festi.info/boxes.py. I imported images of birds that would end up being vectored, and guitar silhouettes that would end up being rastered. I then created peg holes for the new walls and two square holes for lighting access. Finally, I added my name and the year. Please see my Inkscape progress pictures below.

     I then bought some material from Hobby Lobby which included a hobby knife, felt with adhesive, wood conditioner, wood glue, and wood stain. I applied the felt to the bottom of the box and then cut out each hole that the walls would fit into. After this, I fit the walls together and used a rubber mallet to make sure that the walls fit snugly. Please see a picture and video of the felt work below.

 

     The walls of the inner box were difficult to fit into the pegs because of the felt, but I ran into a real issue when I realized that I had not designed one of my square holes correctly. I did not notice that one of the walls in the Inkscape design would have to be flipped when creating the box, so the holes did not line up at all. I also cut all the wood that I would need at school and brought all of the materials to my house for weekend assembly. This meant that I had to wait until the Monday after Easter and after the assignment deadline to laser cut a new piece. If I had observed my Inkscape design more carefully, I could have avoided this. Please see the progress pictures (including the error) and video below.

     Finally, I assembled the box with the new outer wall featuring the square hole in the correct position. Another issue that I ran into came from there not being enough play between the inner walls and outer walls. So, I sanded the inside of the outer walls in an attempt to fix the issue. I then applied wood conditioner and wood stain to the outer walls of the box in order to give it the darker look that I wanted. I had never stained wood before, so I used the website https://www.hunker.com/13401316/how-to-stain-and-finish-plywood. And for the light element, I used an Arduino and a breadboard with an LED. The square hole allowed for the breadboard to be inserted neatly into the box. Please see the sanding, staining, and gear pictures below.

     I think that this has been my favorite Informatics 490 project so far. I was able to take inspiration from my original laser name tag that highlighted my love for music, and make a project that is even more meaningful. I ran into bumps along the way, including the hole misalignment and the play between boxes, but I worked hard to fix these issues. Even with these problems, I had fun making this gear box. As I mentioned earlier, I could have avoided the misalignment issue if I had carefully gone over my Inkscape design, so that is what I would do differently next time. Finally, please see the final product pictures and videos below. Thank you for reading.

 

Sources

Birds Silhouettes: https://www.google.com/search?q=bird+silhouette+svg&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwim48bUsOXhAhUJP6wKHXfcA5AQ_AUIDigB&biw=1920&bih=888#imgrc=NytA04JtWmmu_M:

Electric Guitar Silhouette: https://www.google.com/search?biw=1920&bih=888&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=2ZS-XPPwA8zEswWv0L3wBg&q=guitar+silhouette&oq=guit&gs_l=img.1.1.35i39l2j0i67j0l2j0i67j0j0i67l3.38877.39364..41465…0.0..0.74.263.4……1….1..gws-wiz-img.hJ4nuFrfX44#imgrc=IvEIxUypWts9RM:

Acoustic Guitar Silhouette: https://www.google.com/search?biw=1920&bih=888&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=2ZS-XPPwA8zEswWv0L3wBg&q=guitar+silhouette&oq=guit&gs_l=img.1.1.35i39l2j0i67j0l2j0i67j0j0i67l3.38877.39364..41465…0.0..0.74.263.4……1….1..gws-wiz-img.hJ4nuFrfX44#imgrc=uJi9kKOlyQBurM:

Two-Piece Box Design: https://www.festi.info/boxes.py/TwoPiece

Wood Staining Tutorial: https://www.hunker.com/13401316/how-to-stain-and-finish-plywood

 

 

 

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Arduino Walking Pom-Pom Bot Assignment – Nicholas Agate

     We began the second portion of the Arduino unit by experimenting with servos in class. We were shown the Sweep program by Barragan and how to tweak its variables. Then, we were instructed to get two servos running at the same time. Please see my in-class servos below.

     For my pom-pom bot, I took inspiration from the funky droids in Star Wars that sort of shuffle around on two legs. I began by sketching out a final product that I would want to create after my first iteration. I went online and looked for the Star Wars droid that I was thinking of, which turned out to be called a Gonk Droid, and made a sketch based off of it. Please see my drawing and the Star Wars droid that inspired it below.

     I had the layout of my final pom-pom bot, but I wanted to see if I could switch up the design for my first iteration. I started by cutting out a piece of cardboard that would form the bottom frame of this first bot, and I cut a rectangle in the middle where two servos could go. The idea was that the bot would drag itself across a surface with the two servo arms. I successfully created this bot to my vision, but it was difficult to get it to move properly. I modified Barragan’s Sweep code that was used in class and tried to tweak some variables to get the right movement. The result was a prototype that moved in a skewed, circular pattern. After working on this for a while, I moved onto the second iteration. Please see the first iteration below.

     Next I began work on the second iteration of this project. Because I wanted to create a droid that was similar to the one mentioned above, I reused the same base from the first iteration but, I flipped the servos to have their arms on the outside. I then created legs with popsicle sticks that I hot-glued and tied to the servo arms with rubber bands. This initially created a problem for me because I had changed the orientation of the servos, meaning that I had to adjust the code to align with the new orientation. I again used Barragan’s Sweep code and modified it to my needs. Please see the code and in-progress second iteration below.

     Finally, I finished the second iteration by adding a back, front, and top to the droid. I used cardboard and glued on paper that I designed with a sharpie and some markers. The end result was a droid that was able to scuffle from point A to point B. Please see the final bot below.

     Overall, I found this project to be fun and educational, because I had to consider aspects that I normally do not work with. For example, issues I had involved precise movement adjustments through code, getting the correct weight so that the droid could stand, and making sure that the legs were secured correctly to the servos. All of these gave me a hard time at one point or another, but after trying out different ideas and positions, I was able to get the droid to move in a straight line. If I were to do this project again, I would try to get the droid to take longer strides. The ones in Star Wars do shuffle in a similar way, but it would be interesting to see if I could make a faster droid. Thank you for reading.

Sources

Original code that was modified: Barragan’s Sweep program found in Arduino examples

Gonk Droid image: https://starwars.fandom.com/wiki/GNK_power_droid

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Arduino Introduction Assignment – Nicholas Agate

     For the Arduino Introduction Assignment, I wanted to create a solution to issues with my stove. After I finish cooking, I will sometimes forget to turn one of the burners off. The lights on the stove are not very bright and this makes it harder for me to realize that the stove is still on. So, I set out to prototype an Arduino device that would automatically switch the stove top dial to off. The idea is that a temperature sensor would be linked to the Arduino along with a servo that would turn the stove dial after a certain amount of time passed and there was a positive heat reading. Please see the storyboard for my idea below.

     The first step was to set up the KY-028 temperature sensor and get it to recognize a heat source. I found a guide for doing this on the website arduinomodules.info, and I successfully got the sensor to turn on and link with the Arduino. I also used the code that was supplied on this webpage, but I ran into issues when trying to get the sensor to recognize heat and communicate with the Arduino. The temperature sensor utilizes a physical threshold detector called a potentiometer, and this is where I believe I ran into the problem. The Arduino was supposed to receive a “high” signal when the potentiometer had its threshold surpassed and then light up the Arduino’s LED, but the LED was constantly lit up (“KY-028 Digital Temperature Sensor Module.”). Thus, I tried adjusting the potentiometer to heighten the threshold but with no results. Please see the Arduino, temperature sensor, and arduinomodules.info’s code below .

     After testing the temperature sensor, I moved on to the servo to see if I could get it to operate. I used a very helpful YouTube video by educ8s.tv and was able to get the servo running. I followed the video’s instructions and set the servo up and wrote its code (“Arduino Tutorial: Using a Servo SG90 Arduino.”). I then played with the code’s variables to see how the servo could be manipulated and ended up changing the speed at which the servo swung. Please see the videos of my servo in action, and educ8s.tv’s code below.

     Finally I knew that I would need the temperature sensor to detect heat after a specific amount of time had elapsed and then cause the servo to turn on and perform its task. I already got stuck on the temperature sensor, so I knew that I would not end up with a working prototype. However, I tried to splice the two tutorials’ code together in order to create the prototype’s code. In the beginning of the program, all of the variables from the arduinomodules.info’s code are defined. The setup section then outlines the initial parameters for both the temperature sensor and servo. Following this, I tried to utilize arduinomodules.info’s and educ8s.tv’s code to make a loop that would engage the servo when a “high” signal is picked up by the Arduino from the temperature sensor. Unfortunately I could not get the code to be uploaded to the Arduino due to errors. I got the error messages “a function-definition is not allowed here before ‘{‘ token” and “expected intializer before ‘servo'”. I searched various forums to try to solve the problem, but I could not resolve it before the deadline. Please see the spliced code below.

     I enjoyed this project because I had fun seeing what I could get to function properly. Although I ran into hiccups with the temperature sensor, searching for solutions caused me to learn a lot more about it. If I were to do this assignment again, I think that I would spend more time attempting to write my own code for these devices. This would allow me to learn a lot more and possibly fix the issues with the code that I ran into. Thank you for reading.

Works Cited

“Arduino Tutorial: Using a Servo SG90 Arduino.” YouTube, uploaded by educ8s.tv, 2 January 2016, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SfmHNb5QAzc.

“KY-028 Digital Temperature Sensor Module.” ArduinoModulesInfo, 29 Jan. 2019, arduinomodules.info/ky-028-digital-temperature-sensor-module/.

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Textiles Assignment – Nicholas Agate

     This unit began with an introduction to sewing in which each student learned how to create a drawstring pouch. For my pouch, I picked an exterior fabric that is dark and features sea life along with a green interior fabric. I feel that I understood the instructions pretty well, but I realized that I was sewing too fast and crossed stitches. To correct this, I went slower the second time around and came out with stitching that looked much better. Please see my drawstring pouch below.

     Next, we learned how to embroider on canvas. I really enjoy Game of Thrones so I knew that I wanted to go with this theme. I selected art of the Night King by Daniel E. Kling Jr (see the source at the end of the post) and got to work uploading my image into PE Design. I ended up running into issues when I uploaded the SVG file into PE Design because there were hidden objects in my file. To fix this, the objects were simply found and deleted. Once I uploaded the image into the sewing machine and got to work, I did not run into any other problems. Please see the original image and the final embroidery below.

     Finally, I set out to work on the final portion of this assignment. I originally planned to design a pillow case with a pillow insert, but after concerns of simplicity were brought up, I decided to create a sleeve for cold beverages. I wanted to find a YouTube video that would help me during the process, and I used a video by the YouTube user Debs Days (see the source at the end of the post). My first step involved embroidering with my originally selected pattern, but I was running into a number of issues because of the lines being very thin, so I ended up switching to the current pattern. This pattern is a sigil from Game of Thrones that has a red circle surrounding a black dragon with white eyes and grey claws (see the source for the original image at the end of the post). Once I had my new pattern I began embroidering, but the first attempt failed because I did not place a stabilizer underneath the fabric that I was using. This resulted in a lot of knotting near the bobbin thread and I had to start over. However even with the stabilizing paper, the machine bunched up the embroidery on my second attempt. I tried to figure out what the issue was and I was told that the timing on the machine might be off. I then switched to a new machine and, except for a broken needle, the process went smoothly. Please see the in-progress and finished embroidery below.

     Next, I cut out my two layers of fabric from a large piece of fabric that reminded me of the worn banners that are seen in Game of Thrones. Then I cut some fleece that would serve as the insulator for the sleeve. I stitched a pocket and the embroidery onto the exterior piece of fabric, and then I stitched the fleece to the other piece of fabric. I then finished up the sleeve by stitching the two pieces of fabric together, trimming the corners, making sure that the exterior was facing the correct way, and then folding the whole piece over and stitching it together so that it formed a sleeve shape. The biggest issue that I had with this final product was how large the embroidery was. This caused me to accidentally go over the embroidery while stitching, and I had to use a seam ripper to undo the stitching and start again. Please see my in-progress images below.

     Overall, I ran into some frustrations with this assignment, but I definitely learned a lot about sewing and embroidery. If I were to do it again, I would spend more time in the planning phase and not underestimate the amount of time that embroidering and sewing takes. I will say that I am happy with the way that my final product turned out. It fits very well in the hand, and I can see myself getting use out of it. Please see my final product below.

Sources

Night King Image by Daniel E. Kling Jr: https: https://www.google.com/search?q=night+king+face+art&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwij4qyRrqjhAhWVop4KHdjYDm8Q_AUIDigB&biw=1244&bih=599#imgrc=qSjk-BaZjvzUtM:

Targaryen Sigil Image: https://www.google.com/search?biw=1244&bih=599&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=6pWeXLSyLtfO0PEPrJasmAw&q=targaryen+sigil&oq=targa&gs_l=img.1.0.0i67j0l3j0i67j0j0i67l2j0l2.54754.56006..57678…0.0..0.102.487.4j1……1….1..gws-wiz-img…….35i39.qUY6yz68-rk#imgrc=NwvVPUXm8FFWgM:

Koozie Tutorial by Debs Days: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zubbHi5MCFU

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3D Printing & Scanning Project – Nicholas Agate

     The first experience that I had with CAD for 3D printing was the in-class Tinkercad activity. I created a castle with an alien on the inside. The alien was then moved into Meshmixer, where I made edits such as adding horns. A scan was then made of myself sitting on a stool with one of the Kinects. Unfortunately I do not have images of these. Please see the castle and alien below.

     For the piece that I fully printed, I decided to create an Italian horn which is also known as a Cornicello. I am Sicilian and I grew up around family members who would wear these necklaces or hang one in their car, which is why I wanted to 3D print and adapt one. I did not always know the significance of the horn, but its Wikipedia page states that it is based off of an eland’s (antelope) horn and that it is meant to ward off evil (“Cornicello”). So, I thought that it would be interesting to create one of these horns and adapt it to reflect myself. The first change that I made was to add the horn to a ring. That way I would be able to add other objects onto this ring. These objects ended up being a camera, because I like photography, and a pair of headphones, because I love music. I scanned both my DSLR and my headphones using one of the Ipads from the lab and then uploaded them to Tinkercad. I also went through the process of making the horn in Meshmixer, before moving it into Tinkercad, where I grouped all of the objects together. Please see the in-progress screenshots below.

     Now that I have completed this print, I feel that I have properly learned how to use each of the programs and tools. I am generally happy with the way that the final product turned out, but there were a couple of hiccups along the way. I was attempting to use one of the FlashForges, but it was having an issue with its leveling function, so I had to get staff assistance to help correct this. I also initially overestimated the size of this amulet, and the first print was too small. However, once the FlashForge was working and I scaled up the size, I created a decent end product. Please see the final, adapted horn below.

     Next, I decided to work on the flatware prompt. I wanted to create an idea that solved an issue that people commonly run into, so I went with the idea of a plate and utensils that are designed to help diners get every last bit of food on their plate. My inspiration came from trying to eat rice with just a fork, which becomes quite annoying once there is not a lot of rice left. To create the utensils, I simply used the cylinder, box, and round roof shapes in Tinkercad. I then used the cylinder shape for the plate, on which I attached holders for the utensils with the torus shapes. Please see the in-progress screenshots below.

 

     Once I had the two utensils seen above, I could not figure out a good way to tie them into the plate, but I eventually came up with the idea of holders for the utensils. The idea is that the utensils sit in their holders on the side furthest away from you while you use a traditional knife and fork. This way the utensils are not in the way while you are eating. Once there are only small bits of food left on the plate, you sweep the food with one utensil into the other much like a dustpan and broom. Once I overcame the hurdle of tying everything together, I was satisfied with the outcome of the design. Please see the final product below.

     Finally, I set out to design a functional piece of equipment for myself. The problem that I chose to address was the fact that my keyboard and mouse chords dangle lazily over the edge of my sliding desk. I wanted to have them a bit more organized, so I set out to design an organizing unit that I could mount underneath the sliding desk. I wanted the print to fit snugly, so I took measurements of the desk. The height of the sliding desk was three-fourths of an inch, so I made sure that the back of the organizing unit was the same height. The pillars that would hold the chords in place were two inches in height because there are three inches that make up the gap between the sliding desk and the top of the desk. Finally, I added two quarter inch holes for screws on the bottom of the organizing unit. Please see the below images of the sliding desk, measurements, and first design. 

     I liked the idea behind my design, but I was also worried that the two posts would not be stable enough. In order to remedy this, I created a different design that featured much of the same components. The difference was that I got rid of the posts and added a rectangular shape with a hole and gap in the top. I am very pleased with the resulting product, and I hope to actually print it in the lab so that I can put it to use. Please see the final design and link below.

     Link to final chord organizer: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/6pB30JwDmwd

 

 

Works Cited

     “Cornicello.” Wikipedia, Wikimedia Foundation, 26 Feb. 2019, en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cornicello.

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Paper Circuits Assignment- Nicholas Agate

The first item to cover is the basic paper circuit that I created in class. This was the first time I had ever used copper tape, and I think that it is a great way to introduce someone to the basics of circuitry. This simple circuit had a 3-volt battery, copper tape, a switch, and an LED. Please see my basic paper circuit below.

Next, I picked out a quote for the picture with two LEDs. Because my quote spoke of light, I decided to have the two LEDs shining through a candle. I also ended up creating a circuit in-parallel. When the match is pushed, the positive strip of copper tape touches the battery which completes the circuit and lights up the two LEDs. Please see my picture with two LEDs below.

Finally we have the 3-dimensional paper object. When I was brainstorming for this project I knew that I wanted to somehow incorporate my Italian heritage. So, I decided to create a pop-up card that featured the Italian flag, the Tower of Pisa and the Statue of David. I started by sketching the flag, and then I brainstormed circuit designs that could be used on the back of the card. Please see the sketches below.

I ultimately wanted to have a colored flag with matching LEDs poking through each of the flag stripes. to do this, I used an in-parallel circuit that ran behind the flag. Because of the resistances of the LEDs that I selected, green, white, and red, the current was able to power each of the LEDs without a resistor. I also included a switch by gluing a piece of elevated paper with copper tape on it over a split in the negative copper strip. Please see the circuit and LEDs below.

The largest issue that I encountered while making this project was getting the battery to be seated correctly. Because the material that I used is relatively lightweight, the connection between the battery and copper strips is not the best. I did not end up finding a better way to solve this issue besides pushing the battery down in unison with the switch. If I were to do the project again, I would spend more time looking for a fix to this issue.

Overall, I enjoyed making this project and really like how the final piece turned out. The final project has the Italian flag, the Tower of Pisa and the Statue of David. It also has a green, white, and red theme with an Italian coin which serves as the switch. Please see the final outcome below.

Image Sources

Candle: https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1GCEA_enUS837US837&tbm=isch&q=candle&chips=q:candle,g_1:clipart:E99dYDCIRa8%3D&usg=AI4_-kSjSp-eP0Fh6f2wNo–UGmxqMAbQg&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjCj7Tq5s3gAhVL54MKHdheBYgQ4lYIOigJ&biw=1920&bih=920&dpr=1#imgrc=Y-f45J–F7cSCM:

Statue of David: https://www.google.com/search?q=statue+of+david+silhouette&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjloPif5s3gAhUW8YMKHcLmCPcQ_AUIDigB&biw=1920&bih=920#imgrc=V7kY1iBbKTZHAM:

Leaning Tower of Pisa: https://www.google.com/search?q=leaning+tower+of+pisa+silhouette&rlz=1C1GCEA_enUS837US837&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi72uPS5s3gAhXF7YMKHRLGB5oQ_AUIDigB&biw=1920&bih=920#imgrc=Zj3Jt1bRjjF2aM:

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Vinyl Sticker – Nicholas Agate

For my griffin sticker, I decided to make a cross between a lion and a deer. I joined the two at the middle (like Catdog) and cut the griffin out of orange vinyl. Please see the griffin sticker below.

Following the griffin sticker, I created a logo sticker from a brewing company. This sticker was more difficult to pull off because it had very narrow cuts that were flimsy and hard to work with. I used a base layer of white vinyl, a layer of blue vinyl, and then a red layer that was placed on top of the blue layer. Please see the logo sticker below.

Now I will explain my process of making the complex multi-layered sticker. I first thought of making a design on a guitar pick, but after a while I decided to make a sticker that would remind me of the trips that my family takes to Canada. Please see my brainstorm sketches below.

Once I had my design planned, I began to layer all of the images that I wanted to include in Inkscape. The mountain, chair, and table were all images that I cropped and brought into Inkscape, and the rest were shapes that I generated. In total, there are six layers and seven objects. Please see an Inkscape screenshot of all of the objects below.

Cutting each piece of vinyl was straightforward enough, and I applied transfer tape to each piece in order to assemble my sticker at home. One issue that I encountered was the formation of bubbles under my blue sky layer. I fixed this by pushing each bubble out with my debit card. Once that was fixed, I did not encounter any other issues while piecing together my sticker.

I had a lot of fun making this sticker, and the only thing that I would change for another one is the size. I would take my instructor’s advice and create a larger sticker. However, I am happy with the way my sticker looks on my laptop. Please see a picture with the bubbles and my final sticker below.

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Laser Name Tag – Nicholas Agate

I would like to start off by apologizing for the late assignment, as I got mixed up with the actual due date.

I began this assignment by trying to come up with an idea for the name tag. I have many interests, so I jotted several down and ended up deciding to create an album sleeve and record. I play guitar and love music, which made this an appropriate choice for me. Please see my notes below.

I was originally going to use the guitar shown above, but once I started working with the guitar image in Inkscape, I decided that I wanted to create something a little more involved. Please see the Inkscape guitar below.

The name tag that I actually ended up creating is an album sleeve with a record coming out of it. I used plywood and included the album sleeve, my name, the record, and a vectored hole in the middle of the record. Please see my final name tag below.

The main issue that I encountered was that I originally planned to vector the three sides of the album sleeve and leave the side with the record rastered. Unfortunately I could not find a good way to do this in Inkscape’s “Stroke paint” panel because the whole shape had to have one stroke color. So instead, I surrounded the sleeve and record with a shape that would be vectored.

Although I felt rushed while finishing up this assignment, I am pleased with the way the name tag turned out. I think that the sleeve and record are instantly recognizable. However, if I were to make this name tag again, I would space the outside vector shape a little further away from the sleeve and record. I would also try out a different material such as acrylic. Thank you for reading!

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